Installing the photo backdrops

Within the past few days, all 24 feet of Backdrops Junction photo backdrop has been installed.  These were four 6 foot sections.

I decided to trim the top border from my backdrops.  The borders were not consistent in width and I felt it was just a cleaner look to have the blue edge of the backdrop sky bordering the slightly off white of the FRP.

To do the trimming I used a spare FRP section as a work surface and trimmed the border with a razor blade and straight edge.

As I mentioned in the last post, I had tested several adhesives with scarps cut from the borders of my backdrops.  Of the 4 adhesives I tested the best result came from the Scotch photo mount spray adhesive.

It does not slide around to allow adjustment but the material can be pulled up within a few minutes without damage if adjustment is needed.

This was my technique for the mounting and aligning seams.  I used small pieces of double stick tape to temporarily hold the backdrop while positioning it.

There is extra material on each end for overlap. Line up the sections so the photos match, then make a mark above the top and below the top.

Painters tape was placed along the top edge to both mark the alignment and to mask for any over spray of adhesive.

I used a piece of cardboard aligned with the marks ( highlighted ) to mask the area of the backdrop that I did not want the spray to get on.

A seam is slightly less noticeable from the direction of the top layer.  This photo shows the same seam, the left layer on top of the right layer.

A little planing on where the seams are to be and which angle they are most likely to be viewed from can give a better overall result.

After one end of the backdrop was secured, the other end was rolled back and double stick tape removed.  Then working about 18 inches at a time the adhesive was applied and backdrop rolled out aligning with the blue tape on top.  I used a narrow paint roller with a new pad on it to press the backdrop material onto the FRP.

The backdrop had to have a section cut out on the bottom where it rounded the corner so the bench work could fit under it.  This was expected and the FRP already had a notch cut in it.

Here is the view from the other end of the room.

Now that this much backdrop is finished, the Wesso and Gloconda sections can be mounted in place, some fascia can be installed, and track and wiring connections made on those sections.

Little bits of progress here and there

Since New Years I have been doing a little work in different parts of the layout.

Test fitted the section of backdrop that will be behind the Wesso section of the layout.  Trimmed the bottom a bit to fit around the higher bench work of Winnemucca seen here on the right side of the photo.

I took a few test photos of some locomotives on the track in front of this back drop to see how things looked and was quite happy with the results.  Makes me want to get all 24 feet of the back drop I have installed soon.

There was a good sized border at the end of the back drop section behind Winnemucca that I trimmed off to test with different adhesives on a piece of the FRP.  This back drop is vinyl and I wanted to know the adhesive I use would not adversely affect the material.


Here are the results so far:

3M Super 77 Spray - I had used this with very good results on a module.  That backdrop was a different brand and material.  Glad I tried it out on a scrap from this back drop first as the results were awful this time.  As can be seen in the photo, the adhesive reacted with the vinyl backing of the backdrop causing bulges and wrinkles.

Elmers Glue-All - The common white glue that many of us use for cork road beds, track, and scenery.  I had also used this before on a backdrop on an old layout with good results.  That back drop was paper backed. This seems to work well with this Backdrop Junction back drop with no interaction with the material and any that oozed out on the edges cleaned up easily and left no stain.

Roberts Vinyl Tile Adhesive - This was left over from installing the floor in the train room.  While it holds well and gives a guy a little time to work with, anything oozing out on the edges easily stains the back drop.

Also did some work finishing up the bridge abutments on the Golconda section and installed some cork road bed on both lines on the approaches to the bridges.  Need to get to the hobby shop for some more .060 x .060 styrene strip to finish the concrete sectional bridge in the rear.

On this rainy Sunday afternoon put together the LED light panels that go under the Carlin section.  This photo shows the bench work sitting upside down with one panel open and the other closed.  These LED light panels will light the staging yard.

First photographic backdrops have arrived

The first 4 photographic backdrops have arrived.  One of these is shown in this photo temporarily set up behind the test layout above the work bench to see how it looks.

These are from Backdrop Junction.  I have two pairs of 6 ft long backdrops that are 14 inches high.  There are two different scenes that connect together and with another two that are the same scenes reversed I will be able to get 24 ft of continuous scene.  First got to get up some more panel.

Preparing for photographic backdrops

It is usually best to finish the backdrop before installing the bench work that is going to be in front of it.   Now that the Wesso and Golconda sections progressing nicely,  I need to install a hard, smooth paneling that will curve around the inside corners of the walls that I can then install a photo backdrop on.

Many people use Masonite but I have been using fiberglass reinforced plastic wall paneling.  It is bumpy on the finished side and smooth on the back side so I use it back side out.  This paneling had worked very well on my old layout for 11 years as mentioned in the December 2013 post Lessons learned from the old layout.  For me the advantages of this type of paneling are the thinness and the greater flexibility when rounding a corner.

This photo shows both sides of this type of paneling.  It comes in a 4 x 8 ft sheet and I cut it lengthwise to get three 16 inch x 8 ft strips.  I have cut this both on my table saw with a fine tooth blade and by the scribe and snap method.

Attachment is done with 1 inch nails on the top and bottom at each wall stud.  I tried using finishing nails but the heads of the nails tended to break through the panels so I now use 1 inch nails with a flat head.
At the seams I splice the sides of the panels facing the wall with .020 styrene.

The corners on this layout will be curved and the first one is going to be behind the dry creek scene on the Wesso section.

This photo shows that area and how I have placed the seam between two sections of panel to one side.  The first two panels were from the old layout and had been painted blue.  A notch has been cut out right at the corner so the panel could go over the bench work.


The nails and seams are then smoothed out with Spackle and then a coat of primer will put on to seal everything.  With at least some of the panels now ready I have ordered 24 ft of photo backdrop.